Lowther refurbishment notes
External terminal replacement
The original paxolin-mounted external terminals were in relatively
poor condition, so I replaced them with pairs of Monacor BP-420
terminals. Since these are mounted fitting each one in a 7.2 mm hole,
I needed to block the holes they formerly occupied, I first used scrap
wood to partly fill the holes, with rapid-setting (5 minute) epoxy,
thickened with around 30% by volume of micro-balloons[1].
This mixture has a similar consistency to silicone filler or soft
putty. It is easy to use as a gap filler, sets a bit faster than
straight epoxy and, when set, sands easily.
- micro-balloons are tiny, lightweight hollow glass spheres
that look similar to coarse flour or plaster of paris but are much
lighter.
Most fibreglass or epoxy suppliers sell them.
External terminal protection
The Monacor BP-420 terminals I fitted to the enclosures are quite
bulky, as shown by this dimensioned drawing:
Because of this bulk, I also glued and screwed strakes, made from
three 20x20mm softwood strips glued together side by side, that extend
across the full width of each enclosure's rear surface. The ends and
horizontal edges are bevelled to minimise harm to other furniture. One
end of the middle 20x20mm wood strip was left short so that the BP-420
terminals are partially enclosed by the two side strips and, since the
terminals are only 19mm high, they don't project above the strakes. See
pictures of the enclosures for more detail.
The terminals must be mounted by drilling 7.3mm holes in the
enclosure's rear surface. These should be 165mm above the external base
of the enclosure with the terminal nearest the side of the enclosure
set 35mm in from the enclosure's external corner and the other one 25mm
further in.
I calculated the vertical terminal position as the sum of:
- 15mm enclosure base thickness
- 140mm - this is the internal height of the 45 degree bevel panel
between the enclosure base and back surface. It is used to reflect
sound waves out through the front port.
- 10mm clearance between the top of the bevel panel and the
terminal's threaded shaft. This protrudes into the enclosure and
carries mounting nuts, lock washers and a tag which the internal
speaker wiring is soldered to.
I calculated the horizontal terminal positions as:
- 15mm enclosure wall thickness plus 20mm working space between the
terminal and inside of the wall.
- the second terminal should be 25mm further in than the first one
to keep wiring, solder and solder tags clear of the other terminal.
Internal wiring
I replaced the enclosure's internal wiring because I wasn't sure
that the original wiring would be long enough after I'd repositioned
the enclosure's external terminals. B&Q sells reasonable quality
copper audio cable in sensible short lengths, so I used that. The
points to note are that:
- The internal cable is threaded through the enclosure's audio
passages and its length is at least twice the height of the enclosure
so I was careful to tape the ends of the cable to the internal walls
because I realised that thr only way to get the new cable in place
would be to use the old cable to pull it through the labyrinth.
- I taped the speaker end of the cable to the enclosure when I
removed the old speaker and the external end to the enclosure when
I unsoldered it from the old external terminals.
- Then I attched the new cable end to the old cable with masking
tape and used the old cable to pull the new stuff into place, taping
the end of the new cable to the same position at the speaker end as
the old cable had occcupied. The old cable was then discarded.
- The new cable was cut off the reel where it reached the external
pair of terminals, soldered to the supplied solder tags, the solder
covered with heat-shrink insulation and the solder tags connected to
the terminals.
- The speaker ends of the cable were now attached to the new
speaker, making sure that the wired were not crossed, i.e. that the
same wire is attached to the '+' terminal of both external terminal
and speaker and the new speaker installed.